Read the general Questions & Answers document from Nakheel about JVT Villas here.
FYI: Some residents have informed the JVT community website that TEKA’s after sale service has been less than satisfactory of late. They note service was below par and recommend others to be very clear on what the workmanship warranty will cover before undertaking repairs in order to avoid repeated costly visits of the technician. [5 Jan 2017]
TEKA Clothes Washing machine Click to download manual: Teka Washering Machine 1260 WD
TEKA Dishwasher. Click here: Teka Dishwasher LX 710
TEKA Cooker: Teka Cooker GCO 3G1P
TEKA Hood Cooker Exhaust: Teka Cooker Hood DBV 60
Air-Conditioning Units:Check on your thermostat to see which brand you have and consult the appropriate documents below:
Just in case, and let’s hope no one ever needs this, but Nakheel has even provided instructions for use of the fire extinguisher.
Read here, hopefully before a fire breaks out: Kidde ProPlus 5MP Fire Extinguisher or the Badger Mulit Purpose ABC Dry Chemical Fire Extinguisher
OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION:
BUILDING AN EXTENSION: You need to contact Nakheel for approvals to build an extension. This site is not managed by Nakheel. Here is a comment by a fellow resident on the process for obtaining the CD of villa drawings:
Hi!… Called Nakheel, was asked to email them the issue and property details, which I did. Nakheel then replied saying I should contact the contractors/subcontractors who did the waterproofing on my roof. They also said that this info is available in the ‘As Built documentation’ for my house. Unfortunately, I do not have this documentation as I bought the house 2nd hand, and the previous owner didn’t hand me over these docs; he has now left the country, so I asked Nakheel if these can be reproduced for me and here’s their reply which might be helpful for others:
“Kindly find the below attached information in order to apply for the As built / MEP drawings CD:
– As built / MEP drawings CD, Handled by Community Management.
– Admin fees should be done in the Nakheel Sales Office building #3 in Al Sofouh Road
– Receipt of admin fee payment & tge title deed should be sent via email to JVT Community
– Community team will inform owner when it is ready for collection.”
PAINT CODES: These codes are for an Arabic Villa, constructed by Gunal Construction (other villas may be different depending on the contractor that was used.)
TYPE OF MATERIAL:
2 Coat of Stucco
2 Coat Penemastic Matt
WALLS – Ral 9001
CEILING – Ral 9010
TYPE OF MATERIAL:
Jotashield Tex Medium
Jotashield Penetrating Primer
Jotashield Topcoat Silk
ELEVATION – Ral 1117
GRC – Ral 2086
Alot of people have contacted me asking about the A/C and the “Ghost System”.
Below is a post from Expatwoman.com that explains a lot of things. This person lived in JVT in an arabic villa for 2 years. From my experience this seems about right. If anyway finds otherwise, do let me know so I can correct the information below:
A/C Ghost System
“The ghost system is actually a fresh air system. The unit is located in the maids room ceiling and the control box for the temperature is in a small grey box on the wall (the wall that is the garage wall if you like) in roof. The unit, as it suggests, supplies fresh air throughout the villa, regarless of whether the A/C is on or off, and creates almost like a pressurised atmosphere in the house, hence the ‘whirring’ noise (sometimes even whistling sound) and the doors sucking shut . This system sucks in air constantly (if on) from the slats that you can see down the side of what I call the alley leading from the garage door side of garden, above the maids room window.
Firstly, if you want to keep it on, you need to get an engineer to check what level the temp box is set at. We had the problem that an ice block formed on the radiator grill (on the unit in the maids room roof) and flooded the maids room and utility. This was because the temp was set too low -10 degrees (!!) and in 50 degree summer, that was just too much for it to cope with and formed the ice . The temp should be set to 18-20 degrees.
Secondly, if you are using the fresh air unit, then the filters have to cleaned AT LEAST once a month. These are not the easiest of filters to get out and quite big and again would be useful if one of the A/C chaps could show you how to do it and then you can do it yourselves. But if you imagine the amount of junk they are sucking in, on a building site, surrounded by sand, they get very clogged, very quickly, hence decreasing the efficiency of the unit, making it work harder, costing more money.
Thirdly, if you want to turn it off, (which I recommend), it will affect your A/C slightly. With ours off, our A/C temps never dropped below 23 degrees which in summer was not enough, but I don’t think our A/C units were working as well as they should have been. Turning off the fresh air unit saved about 800 Dhs a month. And yes I think it is Section 3 big switch (might be Section 4) in the upstairs box. There are actually 2 Section 3(4) switches, 1 is definitely in the upstairs box but not sure if the second is in there too or 1 is the box downstairs in the entrance but either way, both Section 3(or 4) switches need to be turned off. These should ONLY turn off the fresh air sytem, nothing else, so if it is, you need to check with an electrician or somone from Nakheel about the A/C.
With reqards A/C get someone to check the units on the roof, ie all the coils, for gas leaks, they are a bit prone to this. Even you can do it, with a bottle full of water and some farly liquid in it, pour it over the coils and if there’s any bubbling – you’ve got a leak. A/C blowing out hot air means the gas has run out.
The water tank is under the garage floor and is pretty big. Even with a sprinkler tank it shouldn’t affect your water supply drastically. I used to find that the water didn’t run quite as well when the garden tank was filling up as no doubt it was never built to cope with dealing with 2 demands for water at once!! But it should not run out! We actually did have that problem when we first moved in over 2 years ago, we were on water delivery twice a day, and quite often the water tanker didn’t turn up, so if the garden had been watered, yes we ran completely out of water in the house.
We had to have our upstairs toilets taken out and ‘redone’ as the outflow pipe was higher than u bend/water pool. We should have done this in the downstairs loo too but just couldn’t put up with more hassle. The flush pressure is not good and as far as the downstairs loo is concerned, there is also an issue with the gradient of the flow channel from the toilet to the manhole which is also in the ‘alley’ and then to the second manhole in the garage. Those of you who live in the villas will know that the downstairs toilet is on the opposite side of the house to the manhole in the alley. The gradient between these two is only about 6 inches covering, what, 40/50 feet?? So, when you go to the ‘loo’ (if you get my drift) in the downstairs loo, the flush is, a) not powerful enough and b) not enough water is released, to get the contents adequately from toilet to manhole!!!! It then needs to get from manhole 1 (in alley) to manhole 2 in garage (right hand side looking out of garage) and ideally beyond that!! Again gradient from manhole 1 to manhole 2 is about another 6-10 inches. So solution to avoid your house smelling like a sewerage works and prevent manholes from getting blocked up, is to use the loo showers as an ‘extra’ flush when you’ve been ‘to the loo’. At least these have a nice bit of pressure. Simply use the shower for 30 seconds-1minute and that should do the job, or at least flush it to where it should get to!!! So, if you’re moving in and your landlord didn’t do such a good job snagging, you might look into whether you might need some toilet reshifting as well. Ours had to be slighly raised to get the gradient right.”
Thanks to Veritas who originally posted this helpful thread on Expatladies. I found it all to jive quite closely with our experience in an Arabic villa too.